Different Types of Pocket in Garments

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Pockets: 
A pocket is a bag or envelope which an opening or slot with a closed end that is usually sewn in or over the garment. In older usage, a pocket was a separate small bag or pouch. Pockets may have a decorative or functional purpose. Sometimes pockets can be used for both purposes. Basically, the pocket is utilized as a depository or as a holding provision for items or hands. A pocket opening should be sufficiently wide and deep to accommodate the hands and to prevent objects from falling out. All types of garments can be designed with pockets. Pockets primarily serve a utility purpose rather than a decoration in men’s garments. In women’s clothing, pockets enhance the aesthetic value drawing attention to the design of the dress. Pockets of varied shapes, sizes, and locations with decorative details such as bias binding, lace, ruffles, tucks, pleats, applique, embroider, etc. can be attached to children’s garments to make them attractive.

Pockets can be classified into three types:

Set-in pockets also classified in some types: 

• Applied pockets/outside pockets – The applied pockets are the pockets that are sewn onto the garment with top stitching. This mainly involves attachment of patch pockets to the exterior/on the surface of the garment.

• In-seam pocket/structural pockets – In-seam pockets are characterized by their unobtrusive appearance as they remain concealed within the seams of the garment. Lining fabric or lightweight self-fabric is used to make these pockets. For the support of the pocket opening and to seal the lining area, generally the facing is extended. These pockets are well suited for trousers, half pants and skirts.

• Set-in pockets/inserted pockets – In this type, the pocket is set into the garment through a narrow opening and made to hang inside. It is difficult to correct stitching errors in these pockets. Accurate marking, stitching, cutting and pressing are mandatory to achieve quality construction. These are used mainly on tailored garments wherever neat appearance is required.

Set-in pockets are further subdivided into: 

 – Welt pocket 
   – Flap pocket 
   – Bound/corded pocket 

Selection of Pocket Design: 
The most important aspect in selection of pocket design is to ensure that the pocket design blends well with the fabric design, garment design and its components like collar, sleeve, cuff, etc. For example, rectangular shaped pockets cut on crosswise grain and finished with bias edging will go in harmony with striped dresses. The scalloped pocket will be well suited for garments with a scalloped collar. 

The designs of pockets are also influenced by factors such as age, sex, shape and personality of the wearer. For girl’s dresses, scalloped and rounded pockets are most preferred. Straight line pockets are more suitable for men’s and boy’s garments. Inconspicuous designs like set-in pocket are used in garments for older women and short women. The pocket designs should be selected such that it is appropriate for the particular style and end-use of the garment. For example, simple straight line pockets are suitable for school uniforms and casual wear garments, whereas concealed pocket styles with decoration trimmings are used in party wear dresses. 

Different Types of Pocket with Names: 

Patch pocket: 
Patch pockets can be lined or unlined, and can be made in any shape desired. This pockets can be cut in the desired shape and are fastened to the outside of the garment. Figure-1 illustrates various patch pockets on a garment. The patch pocket may be furnished with a flap that holds it shut. Alternatively, the top of the pocket can be trimmed with a shaped band that looks like a working flap. Flaps can be used purely for aesthetic purposes when they are attached without any pocket. 

Figure-1: Patch pockets on a garment

Patch pockets are constructed using three layers: the first layer is the pocket itself; a middle layer is an interfacing; and the third layer is a lining matching with the garment lining. Pockets are usually provided with an interfacing and lining when transparent or open weave fabrics are used for the pockets. The lining and interfacing hides the construction details and also matches the pocket with other sections of the garment. When the pocket shape and size are known prior to fitting, the pockets are generally finished and basted in the appropriate place for the fitting. In case the pocket dimensions and pocket location are not confirmed or in case of pockets that require matching with the garment design, a temporary pocket shape is cut out from some fabric scrap and basted onto the garment for the fitting. 

In-seam pocket: 
A pocket in which the opening falls along a seam line of the garment is known as an ‘in-seam pocket’. This type of pocket can be found in pants, skirts, trousers, shorts, kids’ wear, kurtas and pyjamas. Figure-2 shows the in-seam pocket design. 

Figure-2: In-seam pocket

Slash pocket: 
Slash pockets lie inside the garment and the pocket opening is a slash of some type. The slash pocket is subdivided into three types, namely, bound, welt and flap. When each edge of the slash is finished with binding of even width, it is termed a bound pocket. If one end of the pocket is wider, called the welt, and extends over the pocket opening, it becomes a slash pocket. The flap pocket is provided with a flap of extension turned down over the opening. Figure-3 illustrates the slash pocket on men’s yoga short. 

Figure-3: Slash pocket on men’s yoga short

Flapped pockets: 
The side pockets utilize flap pockets, which consist of an extra lined flap of matching fabric to cover the top of the pocket. This flap present over the pocket prevents the contents inside the pocket from getting wet during rain. At other times, the flap can be tucked into the pocket. However, this fact is now often ignored. Nowadays, the flap is left out as it is considered to make a style statement, even during formal events. Figure-4 shows the design of a flapped pocket for an outer coat jacket. In general, any type of pocket in any garment that has an overhanging part is called a ‘flapped pocket’. 

Figure-4: Flapped pocket for an outer coat jacket

Besom pockets: 
Besom pockets are nothing but hidden or secretive pockets. These pockets jacket. Moreover, the edges of the slash have narrow stitched folds or ‘welts’ along the seams, which makes it difficult to distinguish from the garment. Figure-5 shows the design of a besom pocket in an outer coat jacket. 

Figure-5: Besom pocket

Bellows pockets: 
Bellows pockets are sporty pockets. They have folds along the three sewn sides of the pocket, which makes them expandable. These pockets can accommodate bigger objects and were typically designed for hunting jackets. The design of a bellow pocket for an outer coat jacket is illustrated in Figure-6. 

Figure-6: Bellow pocket

Ticket pockets: 
Ticket pockets are basically very small pockets, with or without a flap. These pockets are located on the top of the regular right-hand pocket of a jacket. These are not easily visible and have only one slash evident on the front of the pockets add to the style and help in convenient usage of the jacket. Ticket pockets are also referred to as ‘change pockets’. Figure-7 illustrates a ticket pocket on an outer coat jacket. 

Figure-7: Ticket pockets

Kangaroo pockets: 
Kangaroo pocket is a type of pocket, usually featured on hoodies and sweatshirts, that is large enough to fit both hands into. This type of pockets are long, lengthwise pockets — a bit like a letterbox — that have two ‘pocket’ gaps for the hands at either end. They are often used on hoodies or in sportswear, and are named for resembling a Kangaroo’s pouch. 

Figure-8: Kangaroo pocket

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